CAFÉS
You'll see CAFÉ A BRASILEIRA (Rua Garrett, 120) recommended in every guide to Lisbon. We won't do that unless you don't mind rushed unfriendly service -- this is one of those historical cafés with literary connections that now survives as a tourist trap. It is very central, quite beautiful inside, and the outdoor tables next to a statue of poet Fernando Pessoa look inviting, but for brunch, a light meal, or a drink, head to Pois Café by the city's medieval cathedral in the Alfama district. Owned by two Austrian girls who stopped in Lisbon, loved it, and stayed, this cosy café has old mismatched furniture, various international publications, and serves salads, strudels, and freshly squeezed juices.

We're not sure if this is a new trend, but another team of Austrians moved to Lisbon and opened their own café in the Chiado district next to the city's opera house. That's KAFFEEHAUS (Rua Anchieta, 3), that unlike "Pois," stays open for dinner and well into the night on weekends. It serves light Vienna-inspired meals, although it's most popular for Sunday brunch.

In the same neighborhood is FABULAS (Rua Garrett, 19), a café with a cosy interior made up of old furnishings (sewing machines, sofas, radios, candelabras) and tables on the courtyard outside. Part of the interior is also used for art exhibitions but everyone goes for the welcoming ambience and the light meals made up of salads and burritos, not to mention a mouth-watering chocolate cake.

Further down towards the river is the sleek Deli Delux, a gourmet shop-café combination. It has tables on a terrace facing the river and is, together with "Kaffeehaus," the most popular weekend brunch spot in Lisbon.

Closer to the center of the city, Café Royale also has sitting space in a small courtyard, but it's just as pleasant inside, with its Scandinavian décor and international flavors on the menu.

Around the corner down the street is VERTIGO CAFÉ (Travessa do Carmo, 4), decorated with stained wood and mirrors. The crowd is young, the ambience laid-back, and it's ideal for a late-afternoon drink just before heading to the Bairro Alto restaurants. Don't sit and wait for a waitor to approach you -- you must order at the counter and the waitor will then bring it to your table.

Further up the hill is the Principe Real district, home to an interior design shop and art gallery that's become just as popular as a café. Fabrico Infinito has Lisbon's most pleasant backyard, with elegant furnishings around an immaculate green lawn where the friendly staff can bring you a variety of juices, carpaccios, or cakes. It closes when the shop does at 7PM, so pass by for lunch or a mid-afternoon snack.

In the city's main avenue is LA Caffé, next to the luxury Lanidor boutique. This design café-restaurant is good for a light lunch, with arguably the best-tasting coffee in the city. Cross the avenue to TIVOLI CAFFÉ (Avenida da Liberdade 182-188), part of the Tivoli Theater. It aims to become a chic destination for Avenida strollers, and the elegant space certainly does contribute to that. Come for the afternoon tea, although it also serves lunches that mix several ethnic flavors.

In the Belem district are two other top choices. Antiga Confeitaria de Belém is a magnet for both locals and tourists, serving a local specialty made with a secret recipe. It is a delicious custard tart which may be savored in the large tiled interior.

By the river (between Discoveries Monument and Belem Tower) is a glass rectangle (À MARGEM - Doca do Bom Sucesso), recommended for a delicious dessert after a large salad. Sit and contemplate the river and the surrounding monuments.

RESTAURANTS
The Michelin-starred Eleven is Lisbon's top (and most expensive) restaurant, along with the John Malkovich-owned Bica do Sapato (who also owns club Lux next door). Both have star chefs and the crowds are the rich, sometimes the famous, and the yuppie. "Bica" also has some of the best sushi in the city.

A famous chef also does his magic at Alma, a beautiful almost-completely white space in the city's design district of Santos. Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa's imaginative interpretations of traditional Portuguese dishes are served in two reasonably-priced tasting menus.

A memorable meal is also always found at PAP'AÇORDA (Rua da Atalaia, 57). It's in the trendy Bairro Alto district and has "classic" status, so before you go through its velvet curtains and sit under one of its crystal chandeliers, be sure to have called to book your space (21 346 4811). Try the soupy house specialty "açorda", and finish with the best chocolate mousse in the city.

Another standout is Yasmin, with stylish design and a contemporary menu served to the sound of a jazzy soundtrack by a live DJ.

But speaking of design, if you're in the direction of the design district of Santos, consider the modern and sophisticated Cop'3. Everyone seems to be raving about its food (although probably slightly overpriced), while the crystal chandeliers and marble walls mix harmoniously with stylish modern furniture.

Can't get a table there? Estado Liquido a few doors down is a favorite among the local young and hip crowd for its sushi. The décor is quite nice too and its bar is one of best spots in the city for a drink.
But if you're really a fan of Asian flavors, there's also New Wok where noodles reign supreme, served in a contemporary, minimalist space.

Contemporary design, but also blending some elegant classic touches, is also part of the attraction at Olivier Avenida, inside the Tivoli Jardim Hotel. The menu is creative and international, mixed with some Portuguese favorites.

For servings as beautifully presented as the views from its windows, climb the hill in the direction of Saint George's Castle for CHAPITÔ (Rua Costa do Castelo, 7). With a young and vibrant clientele, this is also one of the most romantic places to eat in the city.

Not offering views, but presenting one of the best menus in the city is Bocca, in a very tastefully-designed interior. It has a great refined atmosphere yet remains relaxed and allows you to sample several wines by the glass. On the lower floor is a gastrobar for tapas-sized servings meant to to be shared in a group (sushi, tiny pizzas, or salads) as well as some good cocktails.

Not carnivorous? Jardim dos Sentidos is a friendly restaurant with a pleasant garden serving veggie buffets for lunch and a la carte menu for dinner (and you may also stay for shiatsu or an alternative therapy).

And before all of the above there was Tavares, the oldest restaurant in the country. It's also its most opulent, with a palatial interior where it's all about classic luxury, but where an original contemporary menu is served. The flavors are mostly Portuguese with other European influences created by one of Portugal's most acclaimed chefs.