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Eating & Drinking in Naples (plus Capri and Amalfi Coast)
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NAPLES
CAFFÈ GAMBRINUS - Via Chiaia 1-2
Naples' most famous café retains much of its original belle époque décor. It was once closed by the fascists after being a popular hangout for intellectuals and writers, but has now been back for some time, still serving some fine pastries.
BAR MEXICO - Piazza Dante 86
Believed to have the best espresso in the city, this café is a local favorite where you can also get a frappe di caffè (iced whipped coffee) to refresh you on those hot weather days.
LA STANZA DEL GUSTO - Vicoletto Sant'Arpino 21
Using the fresh ingredients available at the market, acclaimed local chef Mario Avallone creates inventive Italian dishes that are served together with a carefully selected choice of cheeses and wines. In fact, the wine list is the best in the city and this is a gourmet restaurant to return often, as each day has something different on the menu. Look for it around Teatro Sannazzaro up a flight of steps.
RAU - Vico Satriano 8c
An all-while space colored by neon lights is the setting for this restaurant serving creative regional dishes. The fresh fish is always worth trying, but be prepared for the higher-than-average prices.
BRANDI - Salita Sant'Anna di Palazzo 1
This Naples institution says it invented the margherita pizza in 1889 when Queen Margherita passed by. While there's no proof of that, what is certain is that its huge pizzas are exactly what a pizza should be like. If you feel you've had a pizza overdose in the city by now and want to try something else, there's also an a la carte menu with pastas, fish, and meat choices.
Da Michele
There are only two types of pizza to try here: margherita and marinara. This family has been making pizza since 1870 and still draws crowds to this restaurant, so you know they must be doing something right. Get in line and get ready to try pizza at its most authentic.
CAPRI
L'OLIVO - Via Capodimonte 2b
Awarded two Michelin stars in November of 2008, this restaurant has a magnificent terrace with views to the bay but it's obviously the food that is worth the daytrip from Naples. The dishes are innovative modern interpretations of local cuisine, served in an elegant dining room decorated with antique mirrors and fireplaces. The excellent wine list consists of regional, Italian, and international wines.
DA GEMMA - Via Madre Serfina 6
This Capri institution offers great views from its open-air terrace and serves some good pizzas although the emphasis is on fish. There is also a popular buffet.
Da Giorgio
Capri's best pizza is served at this restaurant. Its crispy thin crust topped with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella please everyone who passes by, while also offering perfectly grilled fish dishes and great views of the Bay of Naples.
Aurora
It's been serving excellent local cuisine for over a century, but you wouldn't tell that by looking at the décor. That's because it got a makeover in 2006 and now features a softly lit minimalist space. The professional staff will help you choose from the menu that offers everything from seafood to thin-crust pizzas.
La Campannina
Celebrities like Gianni Versace and Julia Roberts have dined here over the years but it remains refreshingly unpretentious. It's a tavern-style restaurant that's been run by the same family for half a century, serving perfect Caprese specialties and even better desserts. The wine list has over 200 labels, perfect to accompany a candlelit dinner.
AMALFI COAST
Eolo (Amalfi)
This excellent upscale restaurant inside the Santa Caterina Hotel and with views over the harbor is a sophisticated place to try refined regional dishes. The specialty is seafood while the desserts are worth leaving room for.
La Caravella (Amalfi)
Amalfi's best restaurant serves creative pastas and gourmet seafood in elegant maritime-themed dining rooms. You can try the 6-course tasting menu or choose from the a la carte menu, and be prepared to have a hard time choosing your wine - the cellar has over 15,000 bottles.
Da Adolfo (Positano)
At this laid-back restaurant, getting there is only part of the experience. It's a Positano landmark by the beach reached by motorboat (it's free; look for the red fish on the mast named for the restaurant, leaving every half hour in the morning and once again from 4PM until around 8PM - it does not serve dinners). Once you arrive there, sit on the wooden terrace and have one of the fresh fish dishes, or take your swimsuit and go for a swim before lunch.
POMPEII
Il Principe
After you walk around the fascinating ruins of Pompeii you'll probably need to get recharged, and this is the place to do it. The décor reproduces Pompeian art and the cuisine is also inspired by the past but reinterpreted for modern palates. The food is so impeccably done that the restaurant has earned a Michelin star.
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